The Mess Hall has little in common with the military dining halls of the same name. Perhaps the tiled bar has a military sterility to it and the wooden floorboards and simple seating are dining hall-esque, but this Melbourne restaurant has a warm, elegant allure and wouldn’t dream of serving up slop or gruel.

Situated at the Paris end of town, The Mess Hall jumps on the European bandwagon, serving modern Italian cuisine, particularly from regional Northern Italy, so there’s plenty of pizza, pasta and polenta. My favourite is the Lamb shanks on soft polenta. The generous serve will leave even the most famished full. But it’s not an easy choice with dishes like Gnocchi with duck and red wine ragu, squid ink tagliatelle with scallops, chilli, garlic and herbs and a number of fresh, crispy, cheesy pizzas tempting you from the menu. Lucky the waiters are so chilled out they’ll happily perch next to you and patiently listen to your indecisive umm-ing and ahh-ing before pushing you in the right direction.

By day The Mess Hall is streaming with sunlight, dishing out eggs and coffees with the best of them, and by night it turns on its moody European charm, with plenty of intimate tables for two.

The Mess Hall is perfect for those of you who are in the mood for a classy dinner with a European wine list, minus the snobs and dress codes. From daylight to candlelight this Melbourne gem is perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner.