By Zoe Ferguson, 19 April 2011
Reminiscent of a better time, when rock-n-roll was king (literally), vinyl was hot, and Elizabeth Taylor and James Dean were the screen’s heart-throbs. That’s right, the sweet ol’ 1950s. A modest, yet homely and excitable diner offers this nostalgic trip down memory lane (or for some of us, imagine-if-we-were-alive-in-the-1950s lane). The Eathouse Diner in Redfern is transporting, with its pastel green walls, chalkboard menu and oh-so-retro steel piping around the curved bar, with surrounding hot red vinyl stools, instantly conjure up a 1950s Americana minus the ‘we’re trying so hard to be retro’ kitsch. There isn’t a space not utilised in this diner, but somehow your eye isn’t overwhelmed, but somehow energized.
Speaking of energy, let’s talk about those nibbles...
Instead of boring fries to nibble on while you decidedly choose a main course, try the fried white bait, served with aioli ($14); simple yet flavoursome without overpowering your palette before the meal gets to you. Now, even if you’re not a salad buff, I can assure you that you would enjoy the slow cooked lamb salad with mint, spring beans and peas which is generously served and oh-so delicious...(for a salad). I’m not a huge pork fan but the crispy caramel pork with radish pear and watercress was pretty great, but the lamb is still in front. But wait for it...there’s more...’more’ being dessert. If you haven’t heard of a ‘mole’ tart, then resist the ugly brown hairy bump connotation, and instead teach your brain to think of the Mexican sauce made up of spices, chilli with a kick of dark chocolate. The chocolate mole tart was so beautiful, but the mole sauce layered throughout the tart. It was thin, delicate, but still hit the spot. Its fragile crunch was complimented nicely with the smooth ice-cream, all at once lightening and dissolving the other in one mouthful.
All in all, a great meal, and all the while surrounded by other satisfied patrons who also seemed to be enjoying their culinary delights, amongst the 50s decor and the clashing yet delightful colour scheme. Try it, you won’t be disappointed...unless you despite the mid 20th century and good food. In that case, steer clear...