By Hannah Colless, 05 July 2010
At Pellegrini’s less is more when it comes to flavour but more is more when it comes to portions. And that pretty much defines this place- simple ingredients, huge servings. This humble Espresso Bar has been bringing pasta to the people since the 1950s and its consistent popularity proves that gracious Melburnians respect their elders. While other cafés evolve and new ones sprout more quickly than you can keep track Pellegrini’s, with its questionable coffee and decor that hasn’t been updated since its opening night, remains an unfaltering favourite.
Pellegrini’s is embedded in Melbourne’s history and is an institution of its own, offering no frills, no fuss and no pretention. It isn’t licensed and is not renowned for its coffee so you’re best to stick to their signature granita drink of crushed ice infused with watermelon.
When it comes to the menu, well, there isn’t one. Not in a conventional sense, anyway. There are a few dishes listed on what can only be described as a piece of polished tree suspended from the ceiling but it’s merely a guide and often they’ve run out of some ingredients, or have others that aren’t mentioned so ordering ends up being a process of you umm-ing and ahh-ing and the Italian gents behind the counter tailoring something to your cravings.
For dessert there is an assortment of homemade cakes, pastries, strudels and pies that seriously look like your mama made them but once you’ve finished your pile of steamy, cheesy lasagna or spaghetti Bolognese you’ll have to do some internal rearranging to fit in dessert so you'll probably be back the next day with eyes only for the strudel.
Overall Pellegrini’s has a charm that can’t be beaten. All around them Melbourne swirls in an unstoppable café and restaurant frenzy, competing for the best coffee, the most organic produce and the most rustic looking décor. Pellegrini’s just plonks a plate of hearty pasta in front of you and calls it a day. I wouldn’t have it any other way.