Newly nestled in the ‘whitest suburb on earth’ is Supermaxi - the latest addition to Fitzroy North’s burgeoning food scene. Former co-owner and head chef at Ladro, Rita Macali has set up shop on a forgotten corner of St Georges Road, replacing an old kebab joint.  

The quick transition is representative of a changing of the guard that is seeing quality food become more and more of a focus in the suburb.

The shell of the building, facing onto a small park remains, but the miss-matched décor and plastic tablecloths are out and bare bistro style tables, white walls and Terrazzo tiles are in. A large black u-shaped bar in the centre provides additional seating for those without bookings. Clean solid lines, and hard floors are offset by the inward arrangement of furnishings and soft lighting. The venue is quite noisy, not somewhere to take gran but perfect for a group.

A neat wine list comprises of a small selection of local and international drops. Prosecco floats around as though it runs from a tap and old favourites like a negroni can be on hand in an instant. Small plates of lupini beans are scattered along tables crowded with guests who have just arrived. Like a white, Italian version of edamame, these slippery little suckers are a good conversation starter, especially after you accidently pop one into your companion’s head. 

The pizzas are pretty much perfection, thin, firm, chewable base, sparse but thoughtful toppings, all in all you’ll find it challenging not to rip these babies apart with your hands, and inhale. 

While expectation would be a tight menu of pizza, this is supplemented by a listing of side dishes covering off favourites from deep fried cauliflower and home made olives, to cold meats sprinkled with pepper and trufflie oil. There is also a small listing of what appears to be delicious hand-made pastas and meat, poultry and catch-of-the-day type specials.

Don’t leave without dessert – the fried custard, topped with creamy vanilla ice-cream and drizzled with honey, resonated more with me than Justin Bieber to a tween.