By Zoe Ferguson, 22 June 2010
Anton Forte and Jason Scott have opened one of the coolest new small bars in the inner city. A classic American dive bar. In Darlinghurst. Their labour of love is a country-and-western-style tavern that plays a lot of Johnny Cash and serves everything with liberal lashings of southern charm. Originally named "The Swillhouse", the bar has had several interruptions to its launch, including the rejection of a liquor license based on the fact the suggested name promoted binge drinking. However less than six months ago they finally opened their doors (which unfortunately, aren't swinging wooden saloon-style ones) under the name "Shady Pines Saloon", and it is every bit as cosy, warm and inviting as anticipated.
Tucked away in a Darlinghurst back alley, this boutique dive bar is buzzing throughout the week, despite its cloak-and-dagger laneway discretion, with its front façade covered in a drab, white curtain. Embracing the concept of hidden laneways opening up into vibey watering holes, Shady’s quaint entrance ensures that this hidden watering hole fills up with a down-to-earth crowd, keeping the riff-raff in the more garish, showy establishments.
Walk through the white curtain and enter a different world. A dimly lit basement greets you, dressed as an old Western bar with outlandish décor, from the animal heads leering out from the walls; scattered carved wooden Indian statues; sepia photographs of moustachioed publicans staring down from up high; barstools to perch on and a long wooden bar counter to lean against, while sharing your life story with the bartender over a rye whiskey. The overall Wild West theme is pulled off well, being atmospheric rather than tacky. Shady Pines combines both assets with knowledgeable staff and a cool, quiet (the country and western music is barely audible) vibe beckons you to come for a contemplative drink on your own, or a chat with your friends around a round table.
Creating the six o’clock swill ambience from decades ago, there is a modern attention to food and drink standards, taking their whiskeys and cocktails seriously. Try a superb take on one of the world's oldest cocktails; frothy, smooth and generously strong, the whiskey sour (whisky, lemon juice, bitters, sugar syrup, egg whites, house-cured cherries, $17) or give the house cocktail a taste, the tangy mint julep (a house mint-julep mix of mint-infused sugar syrup, Wild Turkey whiskey, crushed ice and mint, served in a chilled metal cup $17). If you aren’t a big drinker then there's not much for you to see here, and if you’re hungry then feel free to pick at the free peanuts.
Make sure you pull up a stool in this classically cool and unpretentious bar. I’ve made friends with all the taxidermy woodland creatures, shaken hands with the Americana woodcarvings and getting used to saying ‘the usual’ because like me, this bar will soon become your frequent haunt, too. So take a seat cowboy, looks like this town is big enough for the both of us.